ROME, August 27 — Italian Premier Giorgia Meloni’s wardrobe has kept pace with her rise from the fringes to the heart of Italian and European politics, from her entrance in October 2022 as Italy’s first woman PM to her current position approaching a record for the country’s longest-serving leader. Where she originally clad herself in a dark suit and clunky boots, signaling an antagonism reflective of her party’s post-fascist roots, she now opts for a softer, pastel palette and wide-legged trousers that cover her heels, projecting authority without confrontation.
Italian fashion critic and sociologist Ferruccio Ferrari illustrates Meloni’s insight into the significant role of clothing in non-verbal political communication, especially for a leader in Italy—a bastion of Western fashion—saying, “She has to provide an image of herself as a credible leader of a government who has ideas worth debating.” Her wardrobe’s journey echoes her political evolution. Initially expected to spew radical foreign policies and antagonism against Europe, Meloni has instead availed a pragmatic stance towards the EU and become a staunch supporter of Ukraine.
This aligns with her domestic anti-migrant policies, showcasing a pragmatic center that isn’t averse to leveraging conservatism when useful but still receptive to global collaboration where beneficial. Riccardo Alcaro, a political analyst of Italy’s Institute of International Affairs, notes Meloni’s political wardrobe’s transition reflects her broadening political base: “When she was a party leader of a small right-wing party, she had a small electorate that she had to relate to.
Now she is the leader of a major EU country and has to provide an image of herself as a credible leader of a government who has ideas worth debating” (AP). The Brothers of Italy party, under Meloni, has grown from capturing around 4 percent of the vote in 2018 to about 26 percent in 2022.
Fashion, in Meloni’s case, doesn’t just mirror her political temperament but has played a substantial part in expanding her political clout, especially among the conservative centrists of Italy. Michela Bonafoni, who teaches fashion at Uni-College in Florence, interprets the symbolism of lighter shades, stating, “Lighter colors suggest loyalty, tenderness and gentleness. With light colors, you’re more welcoming.” Lately, standing up to criticism and falsehoods from U.S. President Donald Trump has seen Meloni rallying support amongst European allies, demonstrating her wardrobe and rhetoric’s evolution to fit that of an international and credible leader.
Looking forward, the mechanics here suggest that how Meloni continues to dress and address political concerns will remain pivotal for her political longevity and impact. With challenges from the right-wing growing within Western Europe, Meloni’s evolution, reflected in her wardrobe, must match the escalating expectations.
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